This paddle needs tweaks as it breaks at the neck.  Don't print for now.  If you want, use it for inspiration to improve.  

Intro:

Pickleball paddles can be ridiculously expensive.  However, they are super simple dimensionally.  This paddle copies the dimensions of a popular paddle with grip size 4.5".  

The advantage of our 3d printers is that we can choose from a myriad of materials and infill patterns.  There must be some material combination for surface and infill that makes a excellent performing paddle for way way cheaper.  

Is this a joke?

Yes, this started off as a joke.  I realized my 305mm printer was big enough to print a paddle full size.  If you print a paddle out of solid plastic, you shouldn't expect great things.  The paddle will be extremely loud and feel like hitting with wood.

Maybe this isn't a joke?

HOWEVER, I continued to iterate and after switching the middle part of the paddle to TPU, the paddle actually feels like a decent paddle.  

In playtesting, my friend described the paddle as follows:

• TONS of spin.  He said the ball would curve and do crazy things in the air.
  • His friends made him switch back to his Joola paddle because the spin was so good (lol)
• Deceptively quiet, which masks how hard he is hitting the ball
• Low power, which he likes for better touch and he says he has also no problem generating enough power for stronger hits (I think more power can be achieved by increasing the ratio of the face thickness to soft core).
• DURABILITY is still a big issue when printing a paddle with TPU infill.  I continue to iterate on durability.

So, I believe we have definitely progressed from “haha I printed a paddle” to “I printed a paddle that plays decently."

Is the paddle legal (Rules Link)?

Ok, so the later versions (v2.1 - v3.x) of the paddle, when printed with TPU actually merit this discussion.  

• 2.E.2 states no rough texturing and “The allowable limits for roughness shall be an average of no greater than 30 micrometers (µm)”
  • Hilbert curve infill on the top and bottom surfaces probably violates this.
  • The hilbert curve on top and bottom should only be 20 micrometers with layer height of 0.2.  
  • So, if you just use a normal infill than it's probably ok here.  Honestly, the hilbert curve doesn't actually feel that grippy, so it's probably the deflection of the face that imparts the spin.
• 2.E.6.b Rubber and synthetic rubber
  • Welp, TPU is a synthetic rubber…So, to make a legal paddle we need to figure out another way to make a soft core without TPU.  
  • This may be possible by making an infill that can accordion instead of fully supporting the surface.

Changelog:

• 2024-07-01
  • Added Paddle V4.0
    • Note - I haven't had a chance to play test this yet.
    • Goes back to v2.1 style (edge with single piece core).
    • The edge now protrudes from the face by 1mm on each side.  The weakest part of paddle v2.1 is where the edge meets the face, so by protruding the edge, hopefully this will protect the joint some.  This reduces the paddle face thickness to 14mm.
    • The head of the paddle is now reduced in size to address weight balance issues.  This can easily be changed more if desired.
    • Added a split handle design.  I haven't personally tested this yet.  
      • You will need a m3x25 (ideally BHCS) for this.
• 2024-05-05
  • Added Paddle v3.0 - DON'T USE  THIS.  IT IS TOO DIFFICULT TO GLUE THE CORE TO THE FACE RELIABLY.
    • Paddle v2.1 has durability issues due to the edge being glued to the core section of the paddle along the edges.  Also, v2.1 was very difficult to print because it required you to change material type (ABS to TPU) in the middle of the print.  
    • V3.0 separates the infill section of the paddle from the outer portions so it is printed separately.
      • Note: you will need to use an adhesive to glue the core material to the outer material.  e6000 glue should work well for this purpose.
    • V3.0 addresses the edge separation of v2.1 by adhering from the top down instead of edge to edge.  
  • Changed the name to Revolve 3P, since the paddle is basically a spin paddle and no longer a klapper
• 2024-03-29
  • Updated to Paddle v2.1, which increases the thickness of the edge at the neck of the paddle to further increase rigidity.  The thicker neck tapers off towards the top of the paddle.  Handle v2.1 will also be needed for this update.
• 2024-03-25
  • When printing with a TPU interior, the paddle v1.3 has too much flex at the handle.  
  • Added Paddle v2.0 which uses a printed edge to reduce twist and flex at the handle
• 2024-03-24
  • Printed a paddle with TPU interior and man it feels so much better.  Updated the notes to reflect this.
• 2024-03-20
  • Updated to Paddle v1.3
    • Adds more internal cutouts to the base of the paddle to support the bolt hole at the bottom.  When printing at lower infills, the bolt hole in the paddle starts to float in the air.  
  • Added a tighter tolerance handle option.  The 0.1mm option is very close tolerance between paddle and handle and is nice if your printer can achieve it.

Printing/Assembly:

• No supports required.  Print in the orientation provided.
• Which version to print?
  • If you are printing it in plastic only, use [Paddle v1.3]
  • If you are using TPU for the honeycomb middle, use [Paddle v4]
• Paddle
  • Infill
    • After many iterations, the best feel BY FAR is to change the material of the infill to something soft, which allows the face to flex and absorb the sound.  Real paddles use polypropylene (which you can print also, but I don't have any).  I switched to TPU and it is a night and day difference compared to printing the whole paddle in ABS.  It feels like an actual paddle now and not a joke.
    • 8% TPU infill feels pretty decent.  
    • Paddle portion needs to be printed with a material change.  
      • I printed with 6 top and bottom layers (1.2mm thick ABS for the top and bottom)
      • TPU for the middle with 8% Honeycomb TPU infill--no solid layers for TPU 
        • A single top and solid layer may improve the adhesion between TPU and ABS/whatever plastic you use at the cost of weight.
    • Print on a textured build plate to get a textured bottom surface. 
    • Use hilbert curve for your top/bottom surfaces to really up the texture.
    • Currently I have tried ABS and carbon fiber ASA for the paddle surface.  I noticed the ASA-CF kind of gives that sandpapery feel to the surface, but only to the upper surface.  The lower surface feels like your bed surface.
  • Edge 
    • Liberally apply your glue to the edge piece and paddle edge.  I used the bolt through the bottom to help hold the edge and paddle in alignment during gluing.  I also vacuum bagged it during gluing to apply good pressure.
    • This glued joint is the weakest part of the paddle, so so pay extra attention here.  I have used e6000 and “Loctite Professional Liquid.”  Supposedly “Loctite 406” is really good for TPU gluing, but I haven't tried it yet.  
    • If you try something and it works well or know something that will work well, please drop a line.
• Handle
  • Single Piece
    • 4 perimeters, infill 15% (use infill % to adjust the weight and balance of the paddle)
    • You need good layer adhesion for the single piece paddle.  Print this hot, for better layer adhesion.
    • Assembly
      • Glue the paddle/edge to the handle
      • Use a m5 x 40mm bolt up through the bottom into the paddle to strengthen the joint.
  • Two Piece
    • This orients the layers for less reliance on adhesion.  
    • need a m3x25mm BHCS (SHCS works but will protrude just slightly from the handle)
    • Assembly 
      • Glue the two pegs and the upper/lower handle pieces together.  
      • Add glue to the inner surface of the handle and edge.  Slide the paddle into the handle and insert the spacers on each side.  You can glue the spacers also.  
      • Screw the bolt through the entire assembly.