An accessory for the ever-expanding selection of components for RostaP's Honeycomb Storage Wall.

If you're reading this, that's probably because you've got an insert stuck in your grid, and your grid is screwed to a wall or some other surface so you can't push it out from behind. You've tried getting your fingernails under that darn insert, you've tried wiggling it a bunch, you've tried prying it with a screwdriver. You've probably tried one of those… other… insert removal tools out there in the object repositories, and it didn't work and just slipped out. So all you've got for your trouble now is achy fingernails, a bunch of screwdriver marks in what used to be your nice clean grid, and maybe a bruise on your forehead.

Now what?

This one will work. It will work with ruthless efficacy.

This is the original and best, and now it does it even better than before with this new MK2 version.

This is a two piece tool, consisting of a female puller and a male pusher:

The pusher positively expands the prongs on the puller and absolutely prevents it from slipping out.

The tip of the pusher swivels freely to hopefully prevent damaging the surface behind your grid. Your mileage may vary; usage on fragile surfaces like drywall is not recommended unless you slip something like a ruler behind your grid to spread out the force.

Usage Instructions

Operation is so simple, even a monkey could to it.

Snap the puller into the offending insert. Snap being the operative word; you will get auditory and tactile feedback when the hooks are engaged. You may have to pull your grid away from the surface it's mounted on slightly to get proper engagement.

Install the pusher.

Screw in the pusher until the tip of it just contacts the surface behind your grid. The puller is now locked in, and the only way it's coming out now is with the insert attached.

Hold down your grid and keep turning the pusher. Holding the grid down against the surface is vitally important, because otherwise you won't accomplish anything other than flexing your grid around. You may find that for moderately stuck inserts, simply locking the assembly together and mashing it against the wall is enough to push the insert out slightly, which might be all it takes. If not…

Crank it. Trust me, that sucker will be out. In fact, the insert may pop out with such force that it slides down the shaft and bounces against the handle on the tool. You will have to back the pusher out before the puller hooks can be disengaged enough to remove the insert from the tool. The insert should theoretically survive the procedure and will be capable of being reused, but if you also want to just hurl the stupid thing into the sun at this point that's also understandable.

Printing Instructions

This is designed around using a normal 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2mm layer height. Since there are critical clearances in the threads and rotating tip, using different parameters may produce suboptimal results.

Printing in regular PLA is fine. You can use your choice of exotic composite wonder-materials if you must, but I have not found it to be necessary. Print the pusher (male) at 100% infill. The puller (female) can be printed at 50% or so, but for simplicity I just printed both at 100% and it only takes 22 minutes or so to knock out the whole kit and caboodle on my X-Max 3.

The pusher (male) should be printed upright, with the handle against the print bed. The puller (female) is easiest to print standing upright as well, with the hooks up in the air. No supports are required, at least on my printer.

If you are paranoid about layer separation or the overhangs, you can print the puller (female) flat on the print bed like so instead:

There is a square keyway on the threaded hole in the puller which should be oriented upwards to make printing the threads possible if you plan to print this part horizontally.

However, I have not experienced any issues with the tool breaking when printed vertically, even after removing many dozens of inserts, even when printed in ordinary PLA.

The tip on the pusher can be freed with a gentle twist with a slotted screwdriver, coin, or similar after printing. It should not take much force; it's captive and only held in place with a dinky 0.4mm wide pintle inside the model.