Is your “13” tired of all these weak SMGs and AKs? Try the famous minigun! Its six rotating barrels produce an uninterrupted stream of hot lead, obliterating most troubles out of its way.

(Do you need something even bigger? Try out the MAAWS!)
(Accompany it with our custom made BackPack Ammo Box)

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EDIT 2: Due increasing popularity of the “do not print” version I have made completely printable option, so building the entire gun is easier than before. (No more DIY filament barrels)

EDIT: Now Revision 2 - easier to print, easier to assemble. (And with rotating barrels, if you dare to build it!)

Inspired by Dr Operator's weapon pack I decided to design a gun that really fits Lucky 13's hands and looks more like a real minigun. 

It should closely resemble the original (as seen in Predator and Terminator 2 movies). The Revision 2 of the minigun model is a bit less detailed, but much sturdier and playable.

Inspiration taken from: 

• https://propstoreauction.com/lot-details/index/catalog/361/lot/107162

• http://kuba-t1000.com/minigun/index.php?akcja=tutorials_minigun

The gun is made at roughly 1/13th scale. (The most prominent user of the minigun - the T800 - is 188 cm tall, while Lucky 13's height is 14 cm.) It nicely fits barrel size with 1.75 mm diameter of the filament, incidentally.

There are two flavours - one called AllInOne contains printable barrel pack, the other is more DIY. Pick your own, slice your own. 

Printing instructions:

• Choose whether you wish the “!All in One” flavour (easy to assemble) or the “DIY” one (not as easy, but with rotating barrels option)

• Everything is set in .3MF project file - including custom enforced support regions and some other slicer settings (print external perimeters first, force infill etc) 

If you plan to slice your own collection:

The STL files needed for “All in One” flavour are:  Body, FrontGrip, Yframe, Barrels

“DIY” flavour needs these STL files: Body, FrontGrip, Yframe, carousel, discA-5x, discB, stencil. Individual barrels are made from straightened filament.

• Recommended setting is either 0,2 mm or 0.15 mm layers, first layer 0.20 mm, 3 perimeters. The first layer at 50% speed ensures better adhesion.

• The body is best printed in a vertical position, supports where needed.

• The barrel pack needs to have a “cooling tower” to ensure quality. Use supports everywhere where needed, organic supports recommended. 

• The clamping rings (for DIY version) are better printed with a brim; they are easier to handle during assembly. The .3mf file contains all the necessary settings.

• For DIY version, the barrels are not printed. These are made from filament pieces. Read the instructions below on how to straighten them.

Assembly:

All In One version: Carefully remove the supports, glue the handle and the Y-frame to the position, finish with the barrel pack. Use the do-not-print STL file as a reference. Superglue is preferred method.

DIY version: There is illustrated building instruction booklet in the files section. Kindly use it for guidance. 

Short instructions are: 

1. Print all the required parts. Both the gcode and 3mf files contain all the parts plus some spare rings, including supports.

2. Cut six or more pieces of filament to make the barrels (I used Prusament PLA Galaxy silver, choose whatever suits your needs. Straightening PETG is much harder than PLA, though). The pieces should be around 6 cm long. 

3. To straighten them, put the filament pieces in a plate and pour boiling water on them. PLA softens and the filament pieces become (almost) straight with spaghetti-like consistency. Keep them in hot water for cca 2 minutes, while gently rolling them on the bottom. Let the water cool down while still rolling the pieces. In the end, they will harden and become nice and straight. 

4. Prepare the barrels with the clamping rings in the middle of their length. Hold the clamping rings together. 

5. Insert the barrels into the clamping rings, one barrel by one.

6. Insert the carousel on the barrels

7. Arrange the clamping rings using the provided template.

8. Fix the rings and the carousel with superglue.

9. Trim the barrels to the proper length.

10. Form a "rivet head" on one straight filamet, using hot tool (flat screwdriver, glue gun …)

11. Put the axle into the barrel assembly central hole, unitl the rivet head stops on clamping ring.

12. Shorten the protruding axle to approximately 10 mm.

13. Check if everything fits, than glue the axle into the respective socket in the body.

14. Glue the front hangle and the Y-bracket.

15. Enjoy your work!

Tinkercad project: 

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/dJzhbEkRfVG-lucky-13-m134-minigun-old-painless?sharecode=UguXkIchMyqau7ayMlvJSQefRPuME1-NmXc9MRQMSl4