Update 9/2025

I've uploaded a new version with a groove for inserting a length of PTFE bowden tube from a 3d printer (these are pretty cheap and easy to find). The altitude bearings ride on the slippery PTFE instead of the printed plastic which his makes the scope turn much easier and is a must have in my opinion. It's a similar idea to my azimuth bearing (see here https://www.printables.com/model/893497-hadley-telescope-azimuth-bearing)

The bowden tube should snap in place but you may want to do the test print to make sure. I have also included the original FreeCAD document for anyone who wants to edit it themselves.

Original

Use these supports to use your Hadley on a wooden mount without having to cut circular cutouts in your wood. Has two countersunk holes for wood screws, and a pocket for a captive nut to attach a spring tensioner.

There is both an inch and metric version.

Please print the test parts to see if there are issues with hole sizes or issues with bridging in the screw pocket. When I printed mine I had smaller holes in the model that I reamed out with a drill. I also didn't have the pocket for the captive nut. So I haven't verified that the pockets work. I also don't have metric fasteners or wood screws.

Leave comments with any issues and I will update with fixes.

Again, please verify with the test prints before printing the two supports!

Some extra notes…

• I made these mounts to screw onto ¾" plywood. I can't say if thinner plywood would work, there may not be sufficient material to screw into but I haven't tested.
• I used #8 wood screws with a countersink to attach these supports to my mount.
• To use the spring tensioner, first place a nut in the pocket, then screw in a socket head cap screw into the nut until it's snug. Use the same #10-24 nuts and screws as the rest of the Hadley (similar for metric users except I think those remixes use M5 - double check). I don't know what length screw to use because I'm using an older version of this that screws directly into the plastic.
• For the tensioner springs I bought a pack of door springs from Home Depot that had 2 each of two types of extension springs. The larger pair worked for my scope. I don't have the packaging anymore so I can't say exactly which product is was. Make sure the loop at the ends of the spring can fit over a #10 socket head if you don't want to undo the screw every time you take the scope off the mount. My springs are  about 2" long in the free state.
• It's important to not space these supports too far apart. The Hadley Z bearings have a lip on the outside which means if you place the supports too far apart then one side won't sit properly. It's better to be too narrow than too wide.

I also received some interest in how I made my mount. I uploaded a .zip with plans which you can find under the Other Files section. I designed it to be made from a single sheet of 2' x 4' x ¾" plywood (I think it was 23/32" thick specifically). I predrilled the holes to avoid splitting the plywood, and countersunk the holes to match the countersunk head of the screws I was using. Use whatever screw you think appropriate.

You will also need a bearing in between the mount and base, and some feet. I 3d printed a plain bearing and it has a lot of friction so I am designing something new. Many people on the Hadley discord use PTFE furniture sliders on some smooth surface. I would ask the discord for more info if you go that route. I've also heard of people using lazy susan bearings. The feet I'm using are very basic solid feet. You may want to come up with something adjustable to level the mount.