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This is my 3rd Rendition in a series of locking carabiners I've designed.  The first two designs were more focused on being functional while in this design, I wanted a more rugged and modern look to the carabiner that I could snap onto my backpack and other outdoor or camping gear. 

You can find my other 2 carabiners here:  E's carabiner and J's carabiner

The size of this design is approximately the same as the L version of E's carabiner, but 6mm thick instead of 4.4mm from E's carabiner.

If you like the filaments I used, you can find them here (please note - affiliate link):

Polymaker PETG Orange: https://amzn.to/3L2FZHs

Polymaker PETG Blue: https://amzn.to/3Yw3uLU

Polymaker PETG Purple: https://amzn.to/3ZioSpb

Polymaker PETG Red: https://amzn.to/3JjhLan

Polymaker PETG Silver: https://amzn.to/3L5RE8a

[Update 2/4/2023:]

1. Added an easier to open version, with a slit at the elbow to make it flex more readily - labeled with flex in the file name. Take your pick of either version!

[Update 6/23/2022:]

1. Refined flex arm to take larger range of flexing without taking a set when printing with PETG.
2. Increased bump out of “BuildX” letters to provide more “grip” for your fingers at the flex arm.
3. Added a larger size (L) for both the Y and YZ versions while keeping the gap in the snap the same (0.2mm)

Many Uses: Key rings, towel holder for camping, shower curtain rings, etc.

Two versions are provided:

1. Locks in Y direction only, marked as “Y Lock” and a “Y” embossed on the part.
2. Locks in Y and Z directions, marked as “YZ Lock” and “YZ” embossed on the part. This provides more locking ability to resist being un-latched when the carabiner is being twisted while under load.

Tips: 

1. Print in PETG/ABS/ASA for more flexibility.  PLA is not recommended. 
2. Some minor welding is common at the snap area.  Just bend it back and forth in the Z direction and it will separate.
3. Print with 2 walls and 25% infill, 0.2mm layer is fine.  Recommend top and bottom layers to be at least 4 each. Given the print orientation, top and bottom layers have a big effect on stiffness. If you want a stronger part, go with 5 layers each - but beware that it may be stiffer than you'd like.  If you use any more layers, it may become too stiff for you to open it easily anymore.
4. If you scale the part up in size, you can experiment with more wall thickness and more top and bottom layers.
5. Try to place the seam away from the snap geometry area, like by the outside of the bottom knuckle instead - seams can collect excess filament in areas with small print movements that could cause welding at the snap area.
6. For the Y lock version: if you only scale in Z direction, you get a print that is more resistant to opening up while being twisted – it's functionality would approach that of the YZ Lock version. 
7. For general applications, you can just print it as is – some may prefer to be able open the clasp by sliding in Z direction.  The YZ version is designed to prevent unintentional sliding.

NOTE: The gap in the locking snap area is designed to be 0.2mm which is good for a generally well-calibrated machine.  If your print is welded together too tightly, it could mean your printer needs further calibration.  If you believe your printer is already well-tuned, one quick way to improve gap control in this area is to increase your print acceleration during extrusion so that not too much excess material end up in the snap area to weld it together (for my Prusa MK3S+ acceleration of 1000mm/s^2 appears to work well.)

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Happy Printing!